Pittsburgh, PA USA 15102. It would be back and forth in rows although you can still do it after you join in the round and then resume working in the round once the short rows are complete. Either print and draw right on, or highlight cells to illustrate your dream shaping. Thank you so much for these instructions. These diagonal seams are created by regular decreases that gradually taper the yoke from the underarm width to the neck width. Here are five of the most common raglan adjustments that modern pattern designers use to create a better-fitting top-down seamless sweater. A child's proportions are different: Dear Knittingfool, This means that for larger bust sizes using traditional construction, the sleeves will be too large. Now we see why the sweater might poof out just above the breasts or right at the armpit. Custom Raglan Cardi Knit-Along, Week 3: Adjusting Body Length & Adding Waist Shaping. Love the changes. You probably then want to add a few more underarm increases to bring the bust size up to what you need. 5 Top-Down Sweater Styles Explained | Interweave Remember - we are avoiding knitting front stitches, and finishing the sleeves and back of the shoulder as normal. its accuracy or the outcome of its use. When you have finished the raglan yoke increases, you still need to join the body together. This is your desired front neck depth. Written for a bust measurement of 34 inches around the underarm, with about 6 inches of positive ease. be aware that this pattern is a percentage approximation. You must enter a numeric value in all text boxes. As long as that shoulder is around 2 wide, you should have adequate room in the back neck without adding extra shaping. I'm going to be extremely direct here, and if you think I'm wrong - write back and tell me. Twist & Fade Raglan Part 1 Ravin Sekai Designs Copyright2023Golden Peak Media. To work a raglan from the top down, you would begin at the neck edge and achieve the raglan shaping with increases. k2tog - knit 2 sts together. Because the top of the sleeve forms the neck edge, the front neck shaping can be included in the final rows of the sleevesangle the top of the cap by working more shaping on the side that will correspond with the front of the body. It should fit you but not be tight. The technical storage or access is strictly necessary for the legitimate purpose of enabling the use of a specific service explicitly requested by the subscriber or user, or for the sole purpose of carrying out the transmission of a communication over an electronic communications network. The contents of this post first appeared in one of my weekly Studio Updates. Your continued efforts to share knowledge is a treasure and so encouraging to knitters of all experiences. Common misconception: all raglans increase in the front and body every other row and are seamless. Svalbard by Bristol Ivy Learn how to knit the easy way, how to knit the raglan armhole shapingHere is the link to my other knitting channelwww.youtube.com/channel/UC7dn1Kn3wCkjERvV3. 5. The only difference between the two? If you have an odd number of stitches, the formula is: While continuing to follow raglan shaping and stitch pattern: Row 1 (RS): Work in pattern to C sts before the marker / marked stitch, turn. This ones for designers and knitters - lets talk about what makes a raglan click! which most of your sweater will be done. With all of this in mind lets take a look at the increasingly popular raglan style sweater. Its deep back covers any unsightly lumps we may have, and the tailored style is classic. are cast on to give ease to the shape of the torso. I have one question, is there any way to amend a lower armhole in a top-down ranglan sweater when you have finished the sweater? Any. For the raglan inc, when you add in the different directions for sleeve increases only or body increases only, those formulas do not seem to add up. We arent shaped like that! The technical storage or access is necessary for the legitimate purpose of storing preferences that are not requested by the subscriber or user. As pointed out by April K., this percentage method works best for adult proportions. I love the lace. Posted on 28 Jan 15:32, The Ripening of the Raspberry Cheesecake Capelet Posted on 27 Oct 18:04, New & Improved - Stormy Top Posted on 13 Oct 23:59, It's time for Autumn Field Socks! His tailor developed this style of sleeve to be more comfortable for him after the loss of his arm. The reason for this is so that the pattern can be continued down the body when you no longer need raglan increases. The shaping is all absolutely identical, and you can see that this would have zero effect on the back neck. For many women, these are unfortunate places for excess fabric. The percentage method of creating a sweater pattern uses the chest Sigma Tee by Melissa Wherle, from the eBook, Easy Seamless Sweaters to KnitAh, the raglan. Without this shaping, the collar will be pulled to the back. When you are creating your raglan seam, you can use any type of increase that you wish. The front neck can be shaped with short rows or by binding off in the middle and working decreases on either side. wherever the pattern say stockinette stitch. You can add an inch or two here easily, and the whole sweater will be wider in the front only. If you work your raglan straight down from the neck, you will have the front of the neck the same height as the back. A child's proportions Interestingly, in the Crimean War Baron Raglan fought alongside British Army General James Brudenell, the 7th Earl of Cardigan, after whom the cardigan sweater is named! Since I didn't shape out the last three stitches, and there's a final row to resolve the double stitches, the top one appears to have a gentle curve. That area - the underarm to the neck - is called the yoke. Count out and highlight a number of cells that corresponds to the number of neck shaping rows and the number of neck stitches, and draw the neckline you want to make. The casual, sporty look of raglans gives them a somewhat youthful look that has long made them a favorite in knitwear. If you still have rows leftover, you can re-evaluate your neck depth or consider working bind-offs instead. Knit the stitch as normal. For a bit more refinement you could have a mirrored M1R and M1L, and if you were working on a lace cardigan, you might opt to use a yo (yarnover) increase as it would fit with the lace. Short Row Shaping at the Back Neck. The top down version is entirely seamless which makes it very accessible for beginner sweater knitters. In a traditional raglan, you start with the neck size you want, increase the body and sleeves every second row or round until you get close to the body stitches you want. Start here! On the left side, in red, there are two arrows showing raglan length. Now compare the raglan sweaters geometry to the bodys geometry. The pattern you will get from this process will be a guideline to making a Raglan Construction - A Look at Top-Down Knitting Techniques The technical storage or access is strictly necessary for the legitimate purpose of enabling the use of a specific service explicitly requested by the subscriber or user, or for the sole purpose of carrying out the transmission of a communication over an electronic communications network. One in about a 3-4T and the second will be about a To do this neatly, you cast-on the underarm stitches and then join up the back of your body and work on to the other side. All Rights Reserved. Note: I've used inches below. So when I pop in the measurements there is NO WAY that thing fits If you make sure your neck increases are a few stitches in from the edge this will give you a clean line of stitches to pick up from. Anyway, I can deal with it pretty easily, but it does make it a little more tricky for Even when you adjust armhole depth on a sweater pattern and recalculate the raglan increases or decreases, youre going to see a smooth(ish) diagonal line between body and sleeves. If you opt for the top down construction of this style of sweater it can easily be tried on by slipping it off the needle and onto some waste yarn or multiple circular needles. The defining characteristics of Raglan sweaters is that they have no shoulder seam. *Membership cannot be purchased with Gift Cards. If you havent already, take a minute to check out the other posts in this series. To get from raglan depth to yoke depth, you need to add in one-half of the shoulder stitches. Add a few extra raglan increases after you've split for the arms and body. Amy Herzog combines compound shaping with a seamed yoke, so that sleeves and body can be shaped independently of each othershe simply eases the pieces together as she seams, no matter how differently they curve. This is the shoulder width, and from the top of the shoulder, half the width will fall the front and half to the back. Cant thank you enough for this detailed explanation and worksheet. In a traditional raglan, you start with the neck size you want, increase the body and sleeves every second row or round until you get close to the body stitches you want. us newbies. Fundamentally, a raglan is a sweater that is shaped between the underarm and the neck with four columns of decreases that go from the front and back of each armhole up to the neck. However you can still get a trim fit with the addition of waist or bust shaping. The body and sleeves can be worked separately in pieces that are seamed together or the body and sleeves can be worked in the round to the armholes, then joined and worked in a single piece to the neck. This is awesome! Any questions? Ive spent a lot of time studying it, making a few of my own tweaks and I now have much greater confidence that what Im about to knit is more than just a shot in the dark! It is used to suggest a smaller needle size for the ribbing. The shaping for your raglan will fit best if you mirror this S shape - also called compound shaping. Work decreases more closely at the top and bottom, and less frequently in the middle of the raglan line. Finished bust measurement pre-wet blocking of 38.5 inches, and post blocking of 41 inches. One of the disadvantages of sweaters constructed seamlessly is the lack of structure provided by seams. LCx3 - work 6 stitches in a left leaning cable (3 stitches over 3 stitches) LCx2 - work 4 stitches in a left leaning cable (2 stitches over 2 stitches) ssk - slip as if to knit, slip as if to purl, knit the 2 slipped sts together. So if youre a designer, youve got a stitch count at the sleeve and a stitch count in the front and back. Before launching into your short rows, you will need to calculate the number of rows youll be following the pattern instructions before beginning your neck shaping. For some body shapes, this works just fine, BUT on the smaller and larger end of the spectrum, you can have problems. Check the illustration below. This will be neck shaping rows. For a raglan to fit correctly, you would typically increase/decrease on each side of the body (and at the front and back) and on each side of the sleeve on every right-side row or every other round if working in the round. body or the arm length. How to Knit Lifted Increases (They're Almost Invisible!) - Yay For Yarn May I ask, when knitting a raglan top down and adding short rows to raise the back neck, do you do these once you are already knitting in the round, or do you do a few back and forth rows? A garment with raglan shaping has seam lines (or shaping lines) separating the sleeves, front, and back parts of the garment through the yoke. Beginning at the neckline the sleeve cap expands to become the shoulder of the garment. I would not like to have to tear up the entire jacket. The content is awesome. The extended sleeve cap, which matches the yoke in depth and number of rows, has a diagonal tension (a line of stress in the fabric) that cuts across the outer arm and shoulder and can be uncomfortable for women with larger upper arms or broad shoulders. NOTE: The photos and methodology described in this post were both updated in August 2016. In a word, geometry. casting on about 25 stitches and working about 25 rows. The factors are Snug = 2"; Comfortable = 4"; and Loose = 6". You can use Kniterator to DIY your own basic top-down raglan sweater, yoke sweater, camisole, or cowl - all in your size and your gauge. Then I admitted to making several top-down raglans as I explained how Id adapt a knitting pattern for yet another one. How to knit a raglan decrease / Knit Along Day 5 - Hands Occupied The raglan line curves more at top than in the middle on this garment, shown most clearly when I laid an improvised straightedge next to the line. These tutorials and the mention of your Craftsy course have given me more tools and confidence that I may actually make a decent go at making one of these designs! About the type of fit. Compound shaping bends the raglan line into gentle arcs. Personally Ive never seen a sweater design that suits everybody and that every crocheter or knitter adores wholeheartedly, without reservations. Im about to start knitting a top-down raglan sweater in the round with short rows in the back. However, generally, a neckline is more comfortable to wear if the front is a little lower than the back. Thanks so much for sharing you work, I really appreciate it!!! When I get to the other side of the sleeve do I do it in the same order or do I reverse the way they lean? These steps assume you create a crew neck a shallow, round neckline. My reason for contacting you is just to let you know that the percentages for the Being a word person, I got to wondering about the origin of the word raglan, so I did a little research. The Cable Pattern For Body: There's some mythology out there about how front neck shaping rates can 'raise the neckline too fast.' Focus on Fit: How to Refine Sweater Fit with Compound Raglan Shaping for kids and adults. maybe using some of the increments from the other sweater calculator that goes in sizes There's a Pullover or a Hat for the Rebirth KAL! Pattern + overview / Part 1: Casting on and marking raglans / Part 2: Raglans and neck shaping / Part 3: Finishing the neck and yoke / Part 4: Separating the sleeves and body / Part 5: The art of sweater shaping / Epilogue: The possibilities are endless. Knitters in small sizes usually need to make more increases for the sleeve than the body, and have to work fewer increases per row. Yarn overs may be used on a womens garment, or a cable or another decorative feature may be worked along the raglan line to bring more emphasis to the shaping. The raglan sweater can be knit either top down or bottom up. Stitch gauge information must be completed. I enjoy raglan sweater knitting, and I know you will, too. Raglan Construction A Look at Top-Down Knitting Techniques. Any ideas for a neat front neck increase? You will also have a clearer sense right away if you are going to run out of yarn or not, as you will be able to see the full progress of the entire garment as you knit it. UFO to WIP: Can This Crochet or Knitting Project Be Saved? You can space your turns as far apart or as close together as you like in the same row, but if you want to create a scoop neck, youll need to bind off instead of working short rows. By understanding what the designer had in mind and what YOU need, you can intervene in an informed way. Please confirm you want to block this member. But you can also use this information to modify a pattern you're working from. This is because you can keep working in the same direction as that type of cast-on. That will tell you how your stitch counts change as you move from the underarm to the neck. Ideally the test We use cookies to optimize our website and our service. I have fallen for more than a few of your designs but was intimidated because I am considered a new-ish knitter. I wanted to make sure it was perfect for you, and I'm grateful for her sharp eye and clear voice. If the pattern already has them distributed in compound shaping, add your new decreases evenly. Use spreadsheet software to create custom grid paper that matches your gauge by adjusting the number of pixels in the rows and columns, and then applying a light gray outline to each cell. Why dont traditional raglans always fit womens figures perfectly, even when designers, crocheters, and knitters have achieved the perfect armhole depth? Cant wait to get going! This decorative seam continues down into the a-line body and forms the focus of interest for the sweater. Or be a bit Short rows keep us from knitting stitches. Working short rows right across the back of the neck will create a little tiny bubble in the back of the neck, just like a bust dart. In a raglan, stitches from the sleeve contribute to neck depth (see illustration below). I decided not to make modifications to this extremely well written pattern and I havent finished knitting it yet. The chest measurement is treated as the 100%; all other measurements are some portion of that measurement., This is a pattern for working the body of the sweater as one piece starting from the top. However, it doesnt really give the most stable underarm area. Simple Worked-From-The-Top Raglan Pullover Pattern Calculated by the Percentage Method The pattern is generated so that you can use any size knitting needle with any weight yarn. Lisas designs from Knitting Plus are lovely. With Raglan top down you would need to start with the neck size you want. You need room for your neck, or your sweater will ride up onto your neck and pull. Yoke depth is determined by the body's dimensions, Raglan shaping needs to mirror the body's shape, "Raising the back neck too quickly," and other short row shaping myths, Myth 1: Short rows in raglans can be worked across the back neck only, Myth 2: Short rows in the neckline can raise the back neck too fast, Modifying a raglan sweater to fit you perfectly. Its comfy and the style is flattering, if I do say so myself. Is it possible to cut the armhole and add a rhombus or some similar piece? Instead of avoiding those patterns, what if you put in some neck shaping of your own? This file is awesome. Hello Carol, This is so helpful. Thank you so much. Increases are made around four fixed points. The raglan sleeve got its name from Englishman FitzRoy James Henry Somerset, the 1st Baron Raglan, who lost his arm in the Battle of Waterloo. Cecelia. Am enjoying your Craftsy class on short rows. You start with full raglan increases and then move on to alternating body only rows with full raglan increases so that everything fits right at the bottom of the yoke. Kniterator, the top-down raglan knitting pattern calculator Simple Worked-From-The-Top Raglan Pullover Pattern Calculated by the Percentage Method. This takes care of the extra fabric in the armhole area that can arise from the traditional raglan. Whichever unit you use, be sure not to round. Calculate Increases - Knitting & Crochet Guild Please note: This is the number of inches youll need to lower the front neck to create your dream neckline. As weve already seen, raglan sweaters too employ geometry ruleswhether theyre constructed from the top down or the bottom up, the neck opening is essentially a rectangle that grows at its 4 corners into trapezoids or cones. Posted on 27 Sep 10:33. Copy the reflected apex to the main sheet and join the dots. (Not that I expect special treatment for my giant head children) It increases more rapidly between the neck and shoulders and at the end to curve around the underarm, [with] more gradual [increasing] in the section in between. The 2 wider cones become the garments front and back, while the narrower cones form sleeves. I have downloaded it into my computer and will have it available any time I need it. To work a raglan from the top down, you would begin at the neck edge and achieve the raglan shaping with increases. With adding these instructions I will be able to knit easy Things that fits well.Dorothee. If youd like to make a deeper neckline by binding off, you have so many choices! The waist shaping formula is exactly the same as above. and styles, the information on this site is presented without warranty regarding I wanted to make sure it was perfect for you, and I'm grateful for her sharp eye and clear voice. Start by eliminating two stitches per turn (if working German Short rows, this means youll work until there is 1 stitch before the double stitch, then turn your work) until half your stitches to shape out are eliminated. This pattern includes photo tutorial to make it easy to follow. The most basic would be a kfb (knit into the front and back of the stitch). When you knit a raglan the traditional top-down way ( as detailed in my tutorial ), what you're making for the yoke is a flat rectangle with a hole in the middle for your head and mitered corners, which are the raglan "seams.". Measure the distance straight down from the shoulder seam to the level where you want the neckline to be, in a line parallel to the button placket.

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